As a friend of mine said recently “We’ve entered the schizophrenic season” which means, that we are pulled back and forth between brilliant, warm days and chilly nights. What does one wear? But even more importantly, what does one cook? The big secret is that this is the very BEST season for cooking. Cold temperatures at night mean plants get lots of energy from their roots, late season fruits are filled with flavor and sugar, and we’re able to choose among summer and early autumn ingredients. Our menu today includes salmon, and it is inspired by a multitude of things, not the least my years in Seattle where I studied and lived. Pacific Northwest tribes subsist on and revere the salmon, celebrating it in art, cuisine, and spirituality. In France, salmon is a vital part of the seafood offering, with the highest quality farmed in Scotland, though there is a handful of wild salmon available from the Adour River, which goes to restaurants and occasionally we’ll get wild salmon from the Baltic Sea. Wherever it comes from, it is entirely enhanced by the intriguing sauce here, and its lovely accompaniment of grilled peaches, perfect for the season! For dessert? A simple chocolate tart that will make this meal and elegant affair.
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Suggestions for completing the menu:
You can start this menu with pistachios in the shell, always an inviting luxury particularly when they come from Gaziantep, in Turkey, and simple squares of Parmigiano Reggiano drizzled with balsamic vinegar.
Wine suggestion:
You’ve got to try a Chardonnay with this menu. The food is elegant, the wine is elegant, it’s a natural combination.
INGREDIENT/SHOPPING LIST
PRODUCE:
½ cup flat leaf parsley leaves, for garnish
4 medium-sized (5 ounces;150g each) freestone peaches, either white or red
A small handful of red currants – optional garnish
About 1 tablespoon of small, fresh basil leaves – optional garnish
MEAT/FISH: there is NONE
4 salmon steaks, cut 1-inch (2.5m) thick (6 to 8 ounces; 180-240g each)
6 anchovy fillets packed in oil or salt
DAIRY:
8 tablespoons (125g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (250ml) heavy cream
6 tablespoons (95ml) milk
6 large eggs
MISCELLANEOUS AND STAPLES:
1 cup pine nuts
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
Small pinch ground cloves
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons capers
¼ cup (60ml) white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc, if needed to soak salted anchovies
¾ cup plus 3 tablespoons (225ml) olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1-3/4 cups (230g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (100g) vanilla sugar
12 ounces (360g) semi-sweet chocolate (52%), coarsely chopped
Hi
I am making this for a gathering Saturday night. IF I can find salmon steaks, I usually debone after cooking. Should I do that or debone before cooking or doesn’t it matter?
Fish is always better on the bone; do as you normally do, though the difference isn’t huge! Bon Appetit, Josie!
YUMMMMM Salmon! Sockeye is perfect now and we still have King. The Chum is just coming in. Anchovies are available in cans and olive oil…will soak in wine. Can’t wait to do this and give a dinner party!
I’m excited too, for all the same reasons!! Lucky you to have wild salmon!